A Very Important Road Right Outside My Door

Fran Glaría | Traveling Steps

I have seen pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela walking right in front of my parents’ doorway since I was a kid. In fact, the short walk from my parents’ home to my school is on the Camino to Santiago. I have shared my daily morning walks to school with pilgrims all my life.

I never thought about who those strange people with backpacks were, and as you can imagine, it didn't cross my mind why on earth they came from all over the world to walk on this particular road. To tell you the truth, I didn't care. I only knew that I had to be nice to pilgrims because as I was taught by my mom's aunt: “If there is a pilgrim on the road, there is a reason.”

A Pamplona street along the Camino de Santiago Image | larahcv, Pixabay

A Pamplona street along the Camino de Santiago
Image | larahcv, Pixabay

My perspective on the Camino changed in the summer of 1986—the year I walked the first 15 days on the Camino with my school. The first two days in the Camino were all about laughing and goofing around. During the day, Father Andoni tried to be strict with us, but once the sun set, he became the best campfire host in the world. He made us sing, tell jokes; I remember one night he told us about a mysterious toothless pilgrim who would haunt us if we didn't brush our teeth. Father Andoni was awesome! 

By the fourth or fifth day, the sound of the group was much quieter and there were only jokes at night around the campfire. I personally started to enjoy walking by myself in silence. I started to appreciate the sound of the warm summer wind, I never realized that the wind sounds different in the cold of winter. The tweeting of the birds would guide me on each step. I loved how nature was whispering into my ears.

The eighth day of the pilgrimage was different. I was the first one to wake up; I was feeling anxious, my heart was beating faster and louder than normal. I was not scared, but it was weird. There was something different in the air, I could feel it. I told Father Andoni about it. He checked my temperature and everything was normal. So, he said “Let's start our walk and see what today brings to you…”

As I was walking on my own I couldn't hear either the wind nor the tweeting. I could only hear my heart beating. It was so loud that I thought people could hear it as I walked by them. Suddenly the beating stopped, and I thought “Oh my God, I am dead!” But of course, I was not. I was still walking. I could see the group walking in the distance. I took a deep breath, and as I was exhaling I saw on the Camino my mom's Aunt. I ran towards her and we hugged. She kissed me on the head and said, “My sweet boy, I have come to say goodbye. My road here has finished, I must take a different road. Don´t worry—the road I am taking is as beautiful as the one you are on.” 

When she walked away the sound of the wind and the tweeting of the birds came back. I might not have been able to say goodbye to her in person before she passed away, but I know she was with me along my journey and will forever be in my heart.

That night I told Father Andoni about what happened. He smiled at me and said, “If there is a pilgrim on the road, there is a reason. You have just become a pilgrim”

Now I know that each pilgrim comes to walk on the Camino for a reason. It could be because they have made a promise, or they might need to rethink their professional career. Some people walk it on behalf of a loved one, and others to reconnect with nature.  It is funny when people say that they are walking the Camino with no reason. Just wait, you might not yet know the reason why you are here, but the Camino knows why and, for sure, you will become a Pilgrim.


Have you ever thought about experiencing the Camino but you’re hesitant about walking 600 miles? Fran of Traveling Steps is offering a tour where you will be able to enjoy the route from the comfort of a bus starting in Saint Jean de Pied de Port and finishing in Santiago de Compostela. As well you will have the chance to walk some selected parts of the pilgrimage.

Fran Glaria

Fran Glaria was born and raised in Pamplona, part of the Basque country in northern Spain.  His passions for history, art and food, led him to tour guiding. Over 20 years ago, he started a small local guiding company in his hometown. This company evolved into designing tours in the Basque region, and also into organizing tours for the Running of the Bulls festival in Pamplona. In 2012 Fran joined the Rick Steves’ Europe team and discovered a great way of teaching about his culture. You can follow Fran and Traveling Steps on Facebook and Instagram.

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